Joined: 14 Oct 2008
Posts: 11
Location: Rockwood, TN PS Version: Photoshop 7 OS: Windows Vista SP1
Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 7:54 am Post subject: Extra bright sunlight areas
I'm strictly a beginner/amateur with both Photoshop and cameras. I keep getting this sort of photo with my new camera (Kodak Z812 IS).
What can I do with the camera to prevent this?
What can I do with Photoshop 7 to "fix" it?
When we employees were given PS7, we were not given the manuals. My local BAM has a hard back PS7 book. I'm assuming I should either buy it or perhaps simply purchase the new Photoshop Elements 7 and start using it.
Joined: 24 Sep 2007
Posts: 3515
Location: Haverhill, UK PS Version: Lightroom 5, CS4 & Elements 11 OS: Windows 8.1
Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 4:40 pm Post subject:
Hi alwrmcusn,
Photoshop and Photoshop Elements are different varieties of software, so do some reading around before you buy to ensure you get a version that does what you need it to.
As far as the pic goes, looks like the exposure is set up wrong on the camera. What mode were you shooting in (auto would usually do better work than this).
Hope that helps _________________ Matt
3photoshop.com
http://www.3photoshop.com
Joined: 14 Oct 2008
Posts: 11
Location: Rockwood, TN PS Version: Photoshop 7 OS: Windows Vista SP1
Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 7:07 am Post subject:
Yes I am aware of the differences between PS7 and PSE7. I have used PS7 for several years but only to load and view photos basically. We used it mainly to preview product for customers where I worked. So I have this rather high priced software that really was overkill for for us. Oh well.
I think my problem with that, and other photos, was that first of all I'm strictly an amateur photographer. I have been reading and studying and I think that I should have set to AUTO as you suggest. I had it set to APERTURE.
I'll be out testing some more in the coming days/weeks. It is nice to have such resources such as this forum (ain't the 'net wunderful?) to nudge us beginners in the proper directions.
Joined: 24 Sep 2007
Posts: 3515
Location: Haverhill, UK PS Version: Lightroom 5, CS4 & Elements 11 OS: Windows 8.1
Posted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 3:58 pm Post subject:
No probs, and I think you're right, it's great to have a place like this where we can chat about Photoshop.
Aperture is a mode that needs setting manually, so unless you did so, you're photos will be incorrectly exposed. Definitelt worth experimenting, but auto is a great, fast and hassle free way to shoot images.
This effect is a natural result of the wide range of exposure values (luminance dynamic range) required to shoot that scene. You have a foreground which is basically in shadow and a brightly sunlit background. Exposing for one or the other either underexposes (if you expose for the sunlit area) the foreground or overexposes (if you expose for the foreground) the background, as you have done here.
Not even the best film cameras, and no digital cameras, can handle the dynamic range of that image. For this purpose, for years and years photographers have been employing a filter called a graduated neutral density filter. This filter is neutral (i.e. gray) and has a gradient which runs from clear on one side to some percentage of gray on the other. Picture those sunglasses that shade from colored at the top to clear at the bottom and you have it.
In use, the filter is mounted, then rotated until the "horizon line" of the gradient matches up with the separation between the bright and dark areas of the image. In your image that would be approximately a 30° angle from lower left to upper right. The gray area would be on top, of course, to limit the light from the brightly lit trees when you properly expose the clear lower area to shoot the foreground.
If the image is not too badly blown out (this one is; the pure white areas in the background have zero image information), the effect of a neutral density filter can be simulated in Photoshop. Google "photoshop neutral density filter" to find more information, such as this http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m1306/is_10_69/ai_110220822
Joined: 14 Oct 2008
Posts: 11
Location: Rockwood, TN PS Version: Photoshop 7 OS: Windows Vista SP1
Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 7:37 am Post subject:
I read the article (neutral density filters). Interesting but the use of photo examples would have been nice. I find that PhotoShop 7 is overkill for me at this stage of my photography expertise. Like so many people I want more than a "disposable camera" level but I'm not quite ready for a Hasselblad H3DII-39. Also one of the problems with learning from books, magazines and the internet is the terminology. Necessary but confusing until you learn the language. Rather like trying to learn braile over the telephone. I keep plugging away and most of my photos turn out pretty good. When I have a problem that I can't figure out, forums and Google to the rescue
One thing you can do, if your camera has manual controls, which it does since you said you used Aperture Mode, is to shoot bracket shots of high dynamic range images such as the example.
First, see if your camera has an automatic bracket mode. My Panasonic, for example, will automatically shoot three exposures, one set at whatever the auto has set, and one each at up to plus and minus 2 EV (exposure values).
If the camera doesn't automatically provide this function, you can still do it yourself, and in that case you will want to use a tripod to prevent image shift between exposures (in auto-bracket the exposures are very closely timed, so a tripod may not be necessary).
The object of this is to provide a range of exposures which will allow you to, for example, overlay layers and use either a brush on an adjustment layer or a transparency gradient to produce an effect similar to a graduated neutral density filter.
Since there's no film cost, you can experiment as much as you want. If you don't have a tripod, use a beanbag or something. A good percentage of learning in photography is just doing it. So, just do it! ;-)
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